Author: Wild about Spanish, History and the Environment
Freelance writer and Spanish tutor working in Ireland and Scotland. BSc in Computing and Spanish, Post Graduate Diploma in Environmental Economics, Policy and Risk, Diploma in Journalism.
With 16 years experience in Scotland, we are well placed to assist with tourism development.
“Caithness Local Access Forum – Tuesday 18th September 2023. Ross Institute, Halkirk.1800 – 2000
Agenda1. Apologies 2. Notes from meeting of the 28th March 2023. Matters Arising (accompanying Table of Caithness Access Issues and Initiatives)4. Core path suggestions
5. AOCB 6. Date of next meeting
March 2024″
Sutherland.. some ambiguity at time of writing (October 2023)
Far to the north of Scotland lies Caithness, often known as the lowlands beyond the Highlands. Dunnet Head, the most northerly point on the UK mainland, lies at 58° 40′ 21″ N latitude and 3° 22′ 31″ W longitude and is further north than Moscow, parts of Alaska, and the most northerly point of the Danish mainland, Skagen.
120 miles north of Inverness, this far flung corner often gets overlooked by visitors, which is a great pity, as there is a wealth of archaeology, history, wildlife, visitor attractions, accommodation, restaurants, and above all great walking and facilities for the great outdoors in general. The night-time auroras, sunsets and sunrises fill the wide-open skies.
The population is about 30,000, mainly based around Thurso and Wick, but there are many outlying villages such as Halkirk (one of Scotland´s first planned villages), Dunnet (a great centre for recreation) and of course John o´Groats, the destination for many walkers and cyclists in their quest for the end to end journey from Land´s End.
Thurso’s wealth has, for the last 50 years, been derived from the presence of the nuclear power station at Dounreay, currently being decommissioned. Ferries from Scandanavia, Orkney and Shetland call at Scrabster, the port beside Thurso, and an increasing number of cruise liners also call in during the summer months.
Wick is a more typical northern town, with its history stretching back to Viking and medieval times. The town’s herring industry in the 1800s and the influence of Thomas Telford put Wick on the map, but it has been somewhat neglected since the demise of the former. The town is now being regenerated with investment in a new harbour and the Pulteneytown area, which is home to the local distillery by the same name.
The walking terrain and type of walking Caithness caters for all kind of walker. From the highest peak of Morven (2315ft), to three miles of golden beach at Dunnet, and forest walks in Rumster Forest, there is something for everyone.
For easy walks, visit Achvarasdal Woods at Reay or Dunnet Forest at Dunnet. The Forestry Commission forests at Rumster (Caithness) and Borgie (Sutherland) also offer easy terrain and have a wealth of wildlife, birdlife and archaeology. Loch More in the hinterland offers 20 miles of forest-grade tracks. You can also alight from the train at Altnabreach and walk down to Halkirk, time trains permitting.
For moderate walks, try Dunnet Head and some of the coastal routes. There are no marked footpaths on Dunnet Head, but there are a number of walks on Walkingworld. The North Sea Trail, which offers a route around the periphery of the North Sea, has a section on the Moray Firth and has some great circular walks.
For more challenging terrain, try Morven, Scaraben, or Maiden´s Pap.
Where to stay The area offers a wide range of accommodation from hotels and guest houses, to good quality bed & breakfasts and hostels.
Where and what to eat Recommended is Captain´s Galley, Thurso which specialises in fish (open all year). Red Pepper Restaurant, attached to the Holborn Hotel, Thurso.
Other points of interest Castle of Mey; Mary Ann´s Cottage; Dunnet Head; John o Groats; RSPB Forsinard (just over the border in Sutherland); Flow Country; Wick Heritage Centre; Sinclair and Girnigoe castles – which are currently being renovated in a multi-million pound project.
Getting there By air, there are flights into Wick from Aberdeen, Edinburgh and Kirkwall (Orkney Islands). There are connections to Wick from Aberdeen originating in Norwich, Teeside, East Midlands, Leeds Bradford, Bristol, Southampton, Stornaway, Cardiff and Humberside. Alternatively, fly from Gatwick or Luton to Inverness, and drive from there.
By road, the main trunk road, the A9, from Inverness leads north along the coast, one of the most spectacular journeys you will ever drive, passing through picturesque villages such as Helmsdale and Berridale. Enjoy the Berridale Braes – a driving experience in themselves!
By train – Three trains a day leave Inverness to travel the 4 hours to Thurso or Wick. Again the scenery is stupendous as you travel along the coast to Helmsdale, and then across the famous Flow Country, now a National Nature Reserve.
By bus – Enjoy a relaxing 3 hour bus journey around the little villages of the Moray Firth and along the coast.
Contacts for tourist and travel information
John o’Groats Tourist Information – privately run. Tel: 01845 22 55 121
The possible route from Cape Wrath to John o’Groats
To the west and south of Caithness in the far north corner of Scotland, lies Sutherland, a little known county, but one containing some of the most magnificent scenery in the world. The name Sutherland comes from the Norse and the lieutenancy was under the rule of the earls of Orkney for generations. It was known as Suðrland (“southern land”) – from the point of view of Caithness and Orkney it is!
From coastal routes to the mountains of Ben Loyal and Ben Klibrek, Sutherland has it all. Part of the Cape Wrath trail is in Sutherland, and the whole of the north coast of Sutherland forms part of the burgeoning North Highland Way, a stretch of magnificent coastline of 114 miles from John o Groats in the east to Cape Wrath in the west.
Sutherland is a county of two halves and they are distinctly different in terms of culture and history. The eastern seaboard along the coast from Inverness to Helmsdale offers one of the best train journeys in the world. Stunning scenery, tiny remote coastal cottages, the thrash of the Atlantic. To the landward side, masses of colour with gorse and heather in full bloom in the spring and hills just begging for you to walk them. It is not as mountainous as the north, but no less spectacular. The beaches are magnificent.
Walking terrain The terrain in Sutherland varies. The County is vast and the terrain ranges from glorious long golden beaches, to forest tracks to the rugged mountains of the west. There is something for everyone from Munros to gentle strolls around beautiful tranquil villages such as Durness in the north and Brora in the East. The North West Highland Geopark has some great events and showcases the western end of the North Highland Way. We have released a book “North Highland Way: A Geological Perspective” which is available on Amazon. It is a geological walk along the north coast of Scotland. Written with the kind assistance of a member of the Long Distance Walkers Association and information provided by the British Geological Survey and Nature Scot, the book skims the surface of the geological offering in the far north. Including sourced from the North West Geopark and the Rock Route, it is thought that a geological walk over the Mhoine Path may provide a more challenging route. That is not to take away from the coastal route, but the geological route takes the traveller away from Loch Eriboll and the Sutherland Space Hub.
Where to stay The area offers a wide range of accommodation from hotels and guest houses, to good quality bed & breakfasts and hostels.
Maps Ordnance Survey Land Ranger maps LR12 and LR10 Ordnance Survey Explorer maps 451 and 450
This report was written as a result of meetings with the Highland Council, the SNP and Green Destinations. It is only available on request, although you can follow it so that you know when updates are made.
MEETING WITH COLIN AND MATT –
Agenda: Matt update
Colin update
Tina update
Albert Salmon, Green Destinations
Maree Todd, SNP representative for Caithness
Maree Todd: 12th November 2021. It was explained to Ms Todd that a community group could not be got together for cultural reasons. She said that she had had that problem with another area, and now it was resolved. She wanted to know about the Committee. I said there is no committee. She asked if I would want to form a community group. I said “no, I don’t even live in Scotland now. I would not be eligible for any funding, and in any case, Highlands and Islands Enterprise had never funded any project I put forward in dealing in the Highlands for 20 years.
Matt:
John o Groats – trying to get people to stay longer. Andrew Mowatt. There is a planning application in for the Mill.
Agreed to signage at
Matt Dent (Property and Facilities Management)
22 Nov 2021, 09:49 (9 days ago)
to me, Colin
Tina
The Moine Path starts down in Kinloch at the head of the Kyle of Tongue and comes out at the head of Loch Hope/Cashel Dhu. I have wanted to sign it before but never quite seen managed, will contact the estate again.
Matt
Do the Castle of Mey contribute to costs of pathways around the castle, or John Thurso around his? Multi use of course. I note the Castle of Mey has opened a bed and breakfast.
Venture North
Colin: Provided the contact details
Tina
Cathy Earnshaw is the new paid officer who is leading on Venture North work – cathy@venture-north.co.uk
To date, I have not heard from Cathy, but I do know that Albert has emailed her. I do not expect to hear from her at all. As Colin says, it is up to the businesses now, although I note that many businesses in Sutherland are not part of Venture North, so will focus on them.
Colin has also sent an email:
Colin Simpson (Development and Resources)
Wed, 24 Nov, 16:46 (7 days ago)
to Albert, me, Cathy
Good afternoon Albert
I’m just following up on Tina’s introductory e-mail to give you a bit of background to the Council’s thoughts and role.
The Council is very much aware of the need for our tourism industry and destinations to be sustainable and that’s built into many of our plans for example we have visitor management plan for Highland that focusses on reducing impacts , promoting good practice and supporting things like public transport options to hotspot locations rather than car transport. In a similar way we also have public transport, active travel, EV and e-bike charging and environmental protection elements built into things like the infrastructure plan we are currently working on. I’m also aware that our colleagues at VisitScotland who deliver many of the advice and support services for individual businesses (rather than Council’s doing so as the public sector remits in Scotland are set up this way) also have green / sustainable tourism embedded in their services.
However, one area where we are not directly involved is the accreditation side – Highland has a number of different destinations (and destination organisations) and our view is that it is very much an area where either the local communities or local business groups are best placed to decide if this is right for their area. Should they wish to do so we would certainly be supportive and see where our services might assist although we’d leave it to the group themselves to undertake the engagement with any accreditation organisation.
Highland Highlife
Tina Irving <tinadirving@gmail.com>
Fri, 19 Nov, 07:23 (12 days ago)
to Matt, Colin
Hi Colin, Understood. That makes sense, as usual! There have been a few developments: 1. SUSTRANS may assist, although local promotion will be in Northern Ireland as I have no contacts on the ground in Scotland. I have contacted Venture North, but no response so far. 2. I have a meeting with GD next week, and said that you are discussing with the HTP.3. Highland Highlife – I have been in touch with them, they want to know what “in kind” support you are giving. I said it is just a matter of some of your time. James Martin can be a difficult person to deal with, but I’ll manage. He may come to see you about GD.4. Your planning man responded very quickly. There is to be a consultation on the status of the EU Directives to which I will, of course, input. It is important that this sits in the right place. SEPA have yet to respond.5. Signage…. Matt would it be possible to have a specific sign taking people off the road and up to the Mhoine Path from Tongue, and another one at the other end? I think that’s all we need at the moment. All in all, we seem to be all moving in the right direction.
HITrans – from Vikki Trelfer
“HITRANS is the statutory regional transport partnership covering Western Isles, Orkney, Highland, Moray, and most of Argyll and Bute. We work with local authorities, Scottish Government, HIE, transport operators and other stakeholders to improve transport services and infrastructure in the north of Scotland and on routes to the Highlands and Islands.
We are not generally involved with tourism or tourism destinations, except in terms of transportation to reach them; even there our role is limited to strategic planning and occasionally pilot schemes to improve transport options. My specific role is to support partners with strategic developments to encourage modal shift from private car use towards more active and sustainable travel. Active travel refers to transport via physical means (walking, cycling, etc) for everyday journeys, which means travel to work, education, shopping, etc, rather than purely for recreation or exercise. “
Ms Trelfer is always helpful, and has been from the beginning. I don’t feel that the Green Destinations web site adequately explains the requirements for sustainable travel, and it is clear that some people don’t know what it is. Ms Trelfer does, but I had advised Green Destinations that they need to make their web site clearer for a lay person as to how it fits into the accreditation package.
Green Destinations looking at the possibility of doing a pilot scheme to focus on either of the following
1. The train line between Inverness and Thurso / Wick (Wick is not on the North Highland Way, but no matter, they are of course linked.
2. The bus service across the top of Scotland.. Much of it is community (charity) led, so there will be no figures in the public domain. I will ask Colin in my report if it is possible for them to get them.
Presumably Hi Trans does not cover this.
Highland Council Planning Department – Mark Fitzpatrick
Question
Dear Mark,
I have been given your name by Colin Simpson in the Highland Council. I am also in contact with the Climate Change Committee in Edinburgh, although I am based in Northern Ireland these days, after 16 years in Scotland.
It came to my notice some years ago that the EU Directives on Climate Change and Sustainable Tourism with SEPA, not with Nature Scot or VisitScotland. This is an anomaly which has been brought to the attention of the SNP.
I wonder if you could advise how this anomaly may be overcome, given that SEPA are nothing to do with Tourism.
Kind regards,
Response: none
Question: Funding
Response: None
HIE
Informed Eann Sinclair and Roy Kirk that “we are watching from space as to the effect on the peatlands and any projects which contravene the EU Directives on Sustainable Tourism and Climate Change will be stamped on. The Climate Change Committee in Edinburgh are watching.!” The modelling is provided by the ESRI system for which I have a free licence. I already uploaded the CPNs to Google Earth.
Mark Fitzpatrick (Planning and Environment)
Mon, 15 Nov, 17:19 (10 days ago)
to me
Hi Tina,
The remits of Statutory Consultees are set at a national policy level rather than local government so this would be a matter for the Scottish and UK governments to address. There may be a public consultation on the issue at some point in the future that you would be able to respond to, unfortunately however, it’s not something I can advise on.
Kind regards,
Mark Fitzpatrick MRTPI
Planner
Infrastructure, Environment and Economy
The Highland Council
Caithness House
Market Square
Wick
I responded that I would be happy to input into the consultation when it comes out.
SEPA – no response to date.
Nature Scot – no response to date.
VisitScotland – have proposed a road show in May next year using public transport. Await their response.
SUSTRANS
Tina Irving <tinadirving@gmail.com>
Mon, 22 Nov, 14:04 (11 days ago)
to Bo
Hello Bo I really appreciate your assistance – two years ago now! We have been really brave and launched a series of challenges – see web site – http://www.greentourism.online as I personally have been working with the Council for 20 years next year! All of it voluntary, but I do hold the updated feasibility study and business plan as a result of the potential re route around off the road and round the Mhoine Path. Again, no money for me, but a willingness by the Access Officer to listen and take on board. I wonder how we can work together to promote this further. I have been in touch with both Belfast and Scotland sustrans, to no avail. I was hoping for posters and promotional literature, given that I am not based in Scotland these days, but can of course do poster distribution etc. when I return to NI in January. I am currently in Spain..
No response
Scotland
Tina Irving
Tue, 16 Nov, 06:35
Hi I did not get a response to the below…since September! See http://www.greentourism.online for the cycling challenge! Kind regards, Tina Irving BSc PgDip Irish Wri
Sustrans Scotland
Tue, 16 Nov, 15:33
Hello, Thanks for your email – I’ve checked our records and found my colleague Alex had replied on 3rd September requesting more details (below), unfortunately
Tina Irving
Fri, 19 Nov, 06:53
Hi The event will be off road a much as possible, using the Highland Council’s CPN maps. Some of it may be in Borgie Forest, I am in contact with the Forestry o
Graham Moss
Tue, 23 Nov, 16:20 (10 days ago)
Hello there Tina, Your email about the use of Sustrans logo and promotional material has been forwarded to me. Please treat this as a holding response as I’m tr
Tina Irving
Tue, 23 Nov, 16:24 (10 days ago)
Dear Graham. I am copying the two contacts in the Highland Council for verification. I have been working with them for years, and Mr. Simpson is a cyclist as we
Tina Irving <tinadirving@gmail.com>
20:21 (9 minutes ago)
to Graham
Dear Graham I sent you the above. Have you checked with the Highland Council? I have written a report for them (you do not have access to it) including your email trail which is extensive. Kind regards,
This note aims to support a community organisation to develop the North Highland Way.
The guidance note provides an overview of the steps that should be taken and considered in the development of a project to establish the route. It also provides some background information and sources of other information which should be of help in developing the route.
Overview of the project
The project will seek to establish, promote and maintain the North Highland Way.
It is envisaged that the North Highland Way would be a multi-user route approximately 150 miles long running from John O’Groats to Durness.
However, there is no designated route sign posted or way marked on the ground.
A designated route of this scale could potentially qualify as a Great Trail but would need to:
be a continuous, clearly identifiable and appropriately waymarked route between defined start and end points (or defined access points in the case of circular routes).
be largely off-road (generally no more than 20-30% should be on roads).
be at least 40 km/ 25 miles and have potential for multi-day journeys by foot, bike and/or horse.
offer at least a basic range of visitor services, with information on the route, facilities and services available for users in appropriate formats.
offer opportunities to appreciate the natural, cultural and historic interest of the area through which it passes.
be designed, maintained and managed with user experience as a key consideration.
Developing and delivering the route
To ensure that the project is successfully andsustainable it needs to be communityled and driven by either an existing constituted organisation or by a new organisation set up as a charity, SCIO or charity / Company limited by guarantee.
Governance and support
The Scottish Council of Voluntary Organisations – provides lots of good information on how to set up and run organisations and includes – model constitution and memo & arts for different types of organisation ranging from voluntary associations to Scottish Charitable Incorporated Organisations (SCIO).
The alignment of the route and understanding the needs of land managers, community and users are essential in developing a better understanding of the scope of the project and the costs involved in establishing the route.
Sourcing funding and employing a consultant to work with the lead organisation to engage communities and landowners in the development of the route and to produce a comprehensive technical assessment of route, looking at:
the challenges along the route
the evaluation of possible route options
the development of a design scheme and specifications for the route
the production of outline costs for works along the route
the social and economic benefits of the development of the route
would be a key milestone in the development of the route.
Design guidelines
Applying consistent design guidelines to the choice of materials and the infrastructure will make the route easily identifiable and legible. The guidelines could be developed through a consultation proccess by giving people a palette of materials and types of infrastructure to look at and vote on their preferences. Having a consistent approach to interpretation, seating, signage, waymarking, and branding will help make the route easier for people to follow and to enjoy.
The following principles and approaches could be applied in the design of the route:
Developing and applying an inclusive design approach to ensure that the route and all infrastructure is usable by as many people as possible.
Applying the principle of Least Restrictive Access option so that all new work and any future maintenance repairs should aim to meet the highest possible accessibility standards. For example, replacing a stile or a kissing gate – with a gap or self-closing gate that conforms with BS5709:2018
Applying a Circular Economy approach to the development of the route –
by applying a whole system approach to the design, management, and maintenance of route.
assessing the embodied carbon of materials used in the construction of route.
developing a life-cycle approach to minimising material and waste.
How the development of the route will address the negative impacts of Climate Change should also be an overarching consideration in the design of the route and opportunities to create, restore and manage the ecosystems along the route, as well as exploring ways to enhance carbon sequestration and storage should be maximised.
Wayfinding
A combination of the following could be used on the route:
Fingerposts – placed at the start of and end of paths, as well as at junctions with other paths.
Waymarkers – placed along the route at points where the direction of the path may be unclear or where confirmation of the route is required.
Information and interpretation boards – at key nodal points along the route provides details of all paths and routes.
All signage should be designed to be robust, durable, and easily replaceable.
Promotion of the route
The route will be required to be promoted through:
Website – to provide information about the project, the organisation and downloadable content such as leaflets and Gpx files.
Social media channels – to develop a profile and brand for the project, engage and keep followers up to date in the development of the project; encourage the exchange of ideas, promote events and volunteering opportunities.
Leaflets and trail maps – the production and sale of trail maps may provide a source of unrestricted income which could be used to cover annual organisational costs or maintenance costs.
Maintenance of the route
How the route will be maintained and who will carry out the work should be a consideration at the planning stage of the project.
A comprehensive costed maintenance schedule of what needs done, where and when should be drawn up, along with a system to deal with the need for reactive maintenance needs to be considered and produced.
There are very few sources of funding which will cover the cost of maintenance, so the cost of tools, equipment, training, and insurance for volunteers to carry out maintenance should be included in any capital funding bids.
Highland Council Core Path Maps – provides a map of all the designated core paths within the Highlands. Each route shown has been identified through a statutory consultation.
There may be other routes such as Rights of Way which are not Core Paths. This information may be available from Highland Council or Scotways
Long distance Routes and Scotland Great Trails
NatureScot are instrumental in the development and promotion of long-distance routes and the establishment of Scottish Great Trails. NatureScot also facilitates the Long-Distance Managers Forum which enables route managers to share experience and good practice.
Scotland Great Trails – is a nationally branded network of trails. There are currently 5 within the Highlands
The following routes exist on the ground, but at the moment don’t qualify as Great Trails –
John O’ Groats Trail – the trail is being developed by the Friends of John O’Groats Trail which is a charity comprising of a coalition of walking groups and other community organisations.
National Cycle Routes
There are no designated NCR routes within the Caithness and Sutherland. Sustrans route finder shows – Inverness to John O’ Groats Trail – which is an on road route which forms part of the North Sea Cycle Route.
Virtual Routes
There are 4 virtual routes which have been created and promoted by a guidebook or website and but have little or no waymarking and signposts on the ground.
Mapping Scotlands Paths – Ramblers Scotland are currently working on a project to map all of the Paths within Scotland. Once this process is complete the information and dataset will be available free of charge.
Slow Ways is a national initiative which aims to identify a network of routes between towns and villages in the UK.
Statistical information
Walkipedia provides links to statistical information and reports on walking.
Paths for All to provide more information and include Highland Council policies, which I have sent to John Duffy.
Articles to be published in the Strider LDWA magazine and Scottish Walking and Cycling magazine. Spoke Ronnie Dodds – a blast from the past. He will contact Colin re Green Destinations and also possibly walk the new route with his daughter and make a rough blog which I can then tidy up. He needs to do the .gpx. Matt to advise. ronniedoddswc@gmail.com
North Highland Way 